On Wednesday
afternoons, I play netball. I am trying to make it more often,
as this is something that I really enjoy in my week, but it does
unfortunately often clash with our English/ Bahasa Melayu lessons. I was
invited to netball by Liza, and am grateful that the colonial English
left the legacy of this great sport in Malaysia as well as Australia.
Our shared enjoyment
transcends language and cultural barriers. We meet at a communal area
in the kampong of Kuala Dipang and as we gather the children play
around the court, mothers sit and share a durian while discussing the
happenings of the day, and teenage girls cluster together by the
motorcycles, chatting animatedly and eating fried banana. Few of the
other players speak much English, and my command of Bahasa Melayu,
seriously limited at the best of times, on more “senior” days
becomes a basic command of grammar accompanied by a non-existent
recall of vocabulary.

Last week we had the
most fun I can recall. I arrived first, having cycled the 15 minutes
along the main road from home. The “court” is a once-marked-out
area of grass in the middle of the kampong, next to a sealed and
fenced court that appears to be reserved for the men to play soccer.
The lines are all visible, at least in part, if one looks carefully,
though the centre circle must be approximated by the player taking
the centre pass. Patchy grass covers all but the most heavily-worn
areas, which on other days would have been dusty and a bit slippery.
When I arrived yesterday, however, the lower side of the court and
one goal area were submerged as a result of the afternoon's downpour.
The ladies started arriving and decided that a few hundred litres of
water on the court should not stop us having fun, so proceeded to
gather spades and buckets and move sand from the parking area to the
puddle under the northern goal. We all pitched in, and soon the court
was deemed suitable for play.
Liza and Mas speak some
English, though not as confidently as Asma, who usually takes a lead
in organising everybody and referees while she is playing. Asma
usually talks to me in English a bit, though I love to sit back and
listen to the conversation in Bahasa Melayu, grabbing what snippets I
can understand, listening to the pronunciation, the different accents
and the feel of the language. I enjoy just trying to fit in, not
being a celebrity, enjoying the privilege of being allowed to just be
there. Asma has tried hard to make me feel welcome, using her command
of English to explain bits of the culture, the game, the social
goings-on and the language, and has been a real blessing. Asma wasn't
there on that day, and for some time, none of the English-speakers
were there, so I just had to get by with BM. It is good to be thrown
into talking in Bahasa Melayu, without the option of deferring to
English and translators. I am particularly fond of Linda. Her gentle,
caring face tells me that she want me to understand, and she speaks
slowly, with little groups of words that I can decipher in bits. She
speaks little English, but I understand her best, because she takes
the time to patiently explain things and to wait for a response.
All the other players
are Moslem, and wear clothes that cover themselves to varying
degrees. The first few times I played, most had long sleeves and long
trousers, though now most are wearing short-sleeved T-shirts with
long sports trousers. Asma and I wear scarves over our hair, but all
the other ladies, young and old, wear a tudung while playing. Wearing
a tudung can introduce all sorts of challenges in an active game like
netball, but generally they manage well. I don't even notice the
headwear now, except when someone turns up to play in something
particularly bejewelled or ornate. The modern Malaysian tudungs are
mostly lycra or nylon in one piece, easy to wear, and, I assume, easy
to launder, and the loose ends can be twisted and tucked into one's
T-shirt if need be.
The teams are usually
the younger girls and the older women. Most often, we oldies win by a
good margin, but on the semi=submerged field the game was very close,
possibly because the older ladies picked their way gingerly through
the mud, protecting bodies and the families that rely on those bodies
being whole and functional, while the young girls ran around with the
abandon that can be enjoyed by the young and naïve. In our bare feet
we slipped in the mud, sloshed in the sodden sand and splashed
through the submerged part of the field. Every pair of feet and legs
became an itchy, mosquito-bitten muddy mess, and soggy trousers were
rolled up over ankles and calves. We fell in the mud, in the water,
and onto each other. We screamed and cursed without swearing. We
dropped the ball and scrambled in a mad, muddy mangle of bodies to
regain it. But most of all we laughed. We laughed at ourselves and
we laughed at each other. We laughed at the craziness of playing
netball with the court like this, and we laughed at the difficulties.
We made silly noises and pretend-whistle-sounds, as
Asma-with-the-whistle was not there to referee. As always, the play
was mostly fair and good-natured, and we refereed ourselves.
Miraculously, no-one was hurt, and just before seven, all the Moslem
ladies hurried to be home in time for prayers, leaving me to wait for
my husband to arrive with the D-Max to carry me and my bike home to a
warm shower and clean clothes. I waited, bitten, muddy and smelly,
but satisfied, having truly had fun. On the netball court, culture,
religion and language disappear, and what truly matters is integrity
and a pure spirit.
If that was an unusual
netball session, Saturday's was even more interesting. Unusually, not
enough people turned up to play, and after some phone calls, Za and
Linda discovered that a number of the ladies were at a party. This
was conveyed to me in Linda's simple, telegraphic communication,
punctuated with many, “Faham? Understand?” We apparently
thenceforth invited ourselves to the party, or should I say, the
ladies invited themselves and I was commanded to join them. Their
motorcycles were parked undercover in case of rain while five
children and two ladies piled into the D-Max with me. A few minutes
later, we turned up to the party in the back-blocks of Kuala Dipang
dressed in T-shirts and sports pants. Satay, rice, tom yam, chicken
and lots of Bahasa Melayu later, we sloshed through the now-monsoonal
rain back into the D-Max and I delivered the poor souls back to their
motorcycles, from whence they would ride home. It was a somewhat
surreal experience, a white English-speaker gate-crashing a party of
Malays who spoke virtually no English and whom I had never met
before, sitting barefoot on the floor of a humble home connected to
the world by a tiny thread of bitumen that wove between houses and
trees back to the main road. Netball is transpiring to be educational
and an amazing cultural experience as well as great exercise.